![]() By the time it hit market in 2013, two other dealers were involved, and it's cool because we're not so much competitors as friends in the business - we chat and help each other out on occasion. I still have the prototype sitting here in a display case. The result was the Aurora Design FMR Stereo Receiver. What better source than someone who designs OEM products for new cars? We worked together on building not just a better stereo, but the absolute best performing set that could possibly be made. A Design Engineer for the auto industry was interested in designing and building a stereo PCB designed to work in these older radios. Then one day I got a phone call from Detroit. As quality went south, I got frustrated and was making plans to move my business to offering other things. Years ago I was a major dealer for conversions, with the PCB's made by someone else. These checks should keep you busy for awhile.Ĭlick to expand.I didn't design it personally, but I indeed had a hand in developing and introducing the product. If not connected the radio will still work. Radio volume changes with engine RPM the cable should go to the distributor. The RCA connector on the back of the set is for the Volumatic feature. Aside from what I just told you, you would need to be a technician to take it further. If you had a signal tracer you could check the top of the volume control (on the bench) to see if you get audio at that point, this would narrow down the problem. It's a misconception to think that "It's a tube." Tubes may get weak over usage, but rarely does a tube kill the radio. Jiggle the tubes around in the sockets - it could be as easy as a bad connection. The detector, AVC, and first audio are combined in one tube. The audio output is transistor, with a heat sink on the back, but the front end is tube. If all is good and you hear no sound, bear in mind that this is a hybrid radio. Touch the speaker wires to the terminals and you should hear the crackle. Use a AA, C, D, or 9 volt - any will work. You may or may not hear it with the meter, but you will with a battery. But when you measure, you should hear a crackle through the speaker itself. Impedance is different from resistance, which explains the difference in number. I'm not sure if this is a 4-ohm speaker (some were) or an 8 ohm, but you should measure about 7 ohms for the 8-ohm, or 3 ohms for the 4 ohm. You might also test it with the ohmmeter, but many newer digital meters may not push very much current through he coil. The audio output pin will have a measurable resistance, as measured through the output transformer secondary, and the unconnected third pin will measure infinite. I think it's the bog pin, but check for zero ohms. If you have an ohmmeter, measure each of the three pins - one of them is grounded to the radio case. ![]() They didn't go to a two-pin connector until about 1960. By around 1949-50 they quit supplying power to that third pin, so it was just there with no connections. By 1940-41 some speakers were permenent magnet, but most were still electrodynamic - that crazy field coil drew 3 amperes from the 6 volt battery, just for the speaker! By 1946 just about all of them were PM speakers, but they were still wired, remembering that lots of pre-war replacement speakers were still on the shelves and needed to be compatible. If I'm not mistaken the big pin is grounded, one of the small pins is for the field coil, the other is for the voice coil. First off, the three-pin connector is a holdover from the pre-war days, when speakers had a field coil. What is that for?Īnyone else have a similar issue, and is it a simple fix like a tube in the amplifier? Also how should the speaker be soldered to the 3 pin connector? One thick and one thin pin, or two thin pins as it presently configured?Ī number of things here. there is a green lead connected to it coiled up and just hanging there. On the left(driver) side of the radio there is another jack, looks like an RCA jack almost. 0.0 V across any socket to the other two sockets. Took my multi-meter and checked the 3 prong socket. I took a spare speaker, and put the leads into the socket for the thick and one of the thin pins. ![]() However the dash speaker is wired to the two thin pins presently. To me that implies 2 speakers and a fader, with the thicker pin being the common for the two speakers. The jack has one thick and 2 thin prongs. First oddity there is a 3 prong speaker jack, but there is only a single dash speaker in a '57 T-Bird, right? That's all I see on this car. The radio powers up, the signal seeking acts like it is working, stopping at the 3 strongest Denver station on TOWN and stopping at many stations on COUNRTY. I have an odd issue with the '57 I just bought.
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